Wednesday, 7 Dec 05: Day 4

Perhaps we were tired out from the day before. Whatever it was, we were sick of the heat, the pollution and the noise of HCM City. We wondered if Hanoi would be better. It would at least be cooler since it is that much further north. We decided to check out the airfares which should be cheaper, we figured, from HCM than Singapore.

We headed straight for Sinhcafe for breakfast, for a change. There we had:

• Sandwich with mixed grill (beef, sausage, egg, bacon)
• Pho bo
• Bread (baguette) with strawberry jam
• Ca phe

We hadn't intended to order that much food but we really wanted some baguette bread. Thinking the sandwich would be made of baguette, we ordered that, only to find out that it was white sandwich bread. In the end, we ordered the bread with strawberry jam as well, just to feed our baguette craving. It was a simple yet satisfying meal. The damage? 55000 dong (SGD $5.90).

Unfortunately, the airfare was US$196 (SGD $333) per person, for a round trip. That sounded expensive; we couldn't justify the expenditure. It was all a little disappointing. There were other options, such as going to Dalat, the resort town in the highlands. It would be cool but we had heard that there wasn't much to see or do up there. Did we want to take an 8 hour bus ride to and fro just to hang around for a morning? What if the hotel there wasn't as nice as the one we were already staying in? The heat was already frying our brains and it was only 10 a.m. We retreated to our hotel, in a cab, to sulk for an hour.

In an attempt to get us out of our pity party, I dragged us to the War Remnants Museum where the US War, as the Vietnamese term it, was recounted through photographs and artefacts. Making little if any attempt to be objective, the displays were nonetheless powerfully anti-war. I didn't even feel like taking photographs.

Back in the Dong Khoi area, I walked HM to the Duxton Hotel, to check out the spa services. Hopefully a massage would cheer her up. She made a reservation for noon the next day, for a “Slip Off to Zanadu” (sic) ladies’ package – 45 min massage, manicure, pedicure, cocktail and fruit, for USD $19 (SGD $32.30).

If we had to stay put in HCM City, at least the food would be good, we comforted ourselves. This was the night for dinner at Augustin’s, supposedly the best little French restaurant in HCM City. Situated along Nguyen Thiep Street, it didn't look like much from the outside.

the unassuming facade

inside Augustin's (you can see Brodard across the road)

But the food was simply divine. We had

• French onion soup – chockfull of onions and croutons and cheese, yummy! (55000 dong
• Duck pate (terrine canard) – very robust, flavourful pate, almost like a rillette (60000 dong)
• Duck fillet with mushroom sauce (canard cepes) – good (95000 dong)
• Ribeye steak with blue cheese sauce (entrecote roqueforte) – not nuked! (170000 dong)
• Chocolate soufflé with armagnac – oh my god…. (70000 dong)
• 2 glasses of house red at 40000 dong
• Capuccino (20000 dong)
• 2 small bottles of Perrier at 25000 dong each

French onion soup


duck pate (terrine canard)


ahhh baguettes to die for


ribeye steak with blue cheese sauce (entrecote roqueforte)


duck fillet with mushroom sauce (canard cepes)


chocolate souffle with armagnac


the staff jumped at our beck and call, under the watchful eye of Madame (bottom right)

The bill came up to 600000 dong (SGD $64.20). It was excellent bistro quality food, served in substantial portions, at prices equivalent to Singapore's The French Stall. What was there not to like? Moreover, the ambience was enhanced by Madame's presence, as she welcomed her regular customers with kisses on both cheeks.

Despite the huge dinner, we found space for a little more coffee and, more importantly, free wi-fi at Ciao Cafe. Three cheers for HCM City!