Friday, 9 Dec 06: Day 6

The next morning, I couldn't wait to introduce HM to my new discovery in Ben Thanh Market. Breakfast it was, and breakfast we had:

• Pho bo
• Prawn noodles aka bun sup tom
• Rice flour dumplings with mystery meat
• 2 ca phe da
  
  Total: 55000 dong (SGD $5.90)

With two people, we could try more things. It was all good, even the mystery meat. This was followed by a quick spin around the market, as usual.

not for the squeamish - note the pig ears


ah, what a sight


now if anyone knows what these are called...

While it was still cool out, we decided on a little sight-seeing. A visit to the Reunification Palace, entrance 15000 dong (SGD $1.60) each. It turned out to a good choice, offering interesting architecture, some historical nuggets, and most importantly, peace and quiet.

The Reunification Palace was formerly the Presidential Palace. It was the residence in state of the President of the South Vietnamese republic. That regime finally fell to the North Vietnamese army, with a dramatic invasion of the palace by tanks.


front view of the Reunification Palace

replica of tank that stormed the palace gates


Uncle Ho looking all spiffy


all the signs of doi moi, economic liberalisation Vietnamese-style


stately grandeur


built to impress


then war loomed


a touch of '70s style kitsch


the Chinese influence was unmistakable


vestiges of the feudal and the imperial, no?


the evils of diplomacy


look carefully - South Vietnamese Presidents and their bourgeois obsessions


hmm, better have someone guard all that precious porcelain


let's not forget the recreational options


ye lai xiang - days before television


read the small print


the modern city of HCM, from a historical vantage point


underground defence HQ


archaic radio equipment


how cryptic


mobile radio equipment - such irony from our viewpoint


the President's nap area


His getaway car?


a kitchen fit for a President


where many a lovely loaf originated


picture perfect


ok lah, 1970s architecture wasn't that bad


National Education, one presumes


they're as good as we are at this


how pleasant, such wide sidewalks

At the height of noon, we made a dash for ice cream at HCM's renowned ice cream parlour, Kem Bach Dang, at the corner of Pasteur and Le Loi. It was well patronised by tourists and viet khieu (returning Vietnamese).


an oasis

For 75000 dong (SGD $8.00), we had:


me, indulging in a Kem Bach special


close-up - say cheese!


ice cream inna coconut, duh

As per our routine, it was back to the hotel for a snooze before tea.

We had been eyeing this place opposite our hotel - Tesuka Katsuyoshi. Possibly Japanese-owned, it was supposedly a good place for pho. Out of loyalty to Pho 24, we had held off checking this place out, but with two days left to our trip, it was now or never. The restaurant turned out to be an experience unto itself.


dragon inn meets...


dubious night club lighting

But the food was good. Unlike the usual clear pho soup, this was beefy and rich, a murky brew indeed. We had the special with prawns and that cost us 50000 dong (SGD $5.35).


yes, we love our pho


super deluxe version

Before dinner, we took a long walk, down by the river, and then up towards Ben Thanh Market again. This time though, we were headed for a seafood restaurant situated on Le Thanh Ton. Along the way, there were more pretty shops to visit.


how pretty...


and twee, awww


nice...


things we didn't buy...


but we know people will like


for Vietnamese fashionistas, eh?

We found Miss Saigon next to a tennis school of some sort. Set in the compound of a colonial-style house, it reminded me of Hua Yu Wee. It was quite pleasant sitting out there although it was a little surreal...

Christmas with a vengeance


as I was saying...

What did we have?

• Steamed crab 700 g @ 180000 dong per kg (126000 dong/SGD $13.50)
• Live garoupa, deep fried with garlic, ginger and salt AND steamed 1kg @ 330000 dong (330000 dong/SGD $35.30)
• Sauteed seasonal vegetables (looked like morning glory) with bean cheese (30000 dong/SGD $3.20)
• Steamed white rice
• Iced Vietnamese tea for two
• Fresh fruit for two

Total: 546000 dong (SGD $58.40) including service


garoupa, deep fried with garlic, ginger and salt


steamed garoupa


sauteed seasonal vegetables with bean cheese

It was a typical seafood restaurant experience for us, although it may have been a novelty for other tourists. Still, there were plus points. The service was good - the wait staff were happy to explain and advise. The crab was quite different in that it really was qing zheng, with no condiments except salt and ginger - quite surprising considering that most restaurants opt to over-season. Overall, the food was competently cooked.

By this time, we were stuffed to the gills. It was time for a long walk. It being the weekend, there was many a night market going on in the area of Ben Thanh Market and Le Tran Dao. To my regret, hawker stalls had sprung up around Ben Thanh Market, ala Lau Pa Sat. The shellfish looked really good. If only I could eat some more...

The Vietnamese were out in droves - families with kids in tow, couples out on dates. There was something for everyone.


how ingenious


night market


live entertainment of another kind


yet more live entertainment

There was also a big sale being conducted by a large department store on Le Tran Dao. People were jostling and rushing for these electrical appliances. Clearly Friday night was the big night out.